Hey Serial Walkers !
Nepal, Nepal, Nepal .. I was imaging a bunch of white hippies in floral dresses smoking for a few minutes there !
It was my First stop on the world tour I never finished. I always wanted to see Kathmandu, the temples in the historical valley ! So, before reaching India, I decided to make a stop in Nepal.
Well, most people asked me about my intentions of trekking … Let me be very clear : my fat gay ass does not trek, or do camping. Thank you white straight people, I would nearly killed myself out there. S if you are looking for the stories of my ABC trail, it ain’t gonna happen ! I only do the DDD trail, the Day Drinking Day one.
Let’s go back to the matter at hand : Nepal, the Valley of Kathmandou – A week of mesmerising memories, the most welcoming people on the roof of the world, a memorable day drinking day, slutty meetings in the street of Kathmandu !
Essentials : Nepal & LGBTQIA +
The Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal is UN Member since 1955 with the motto « Mother and motherland are greater than heaven ». Nepali is widely spoken in this country mostly in the Himalayas. Nicknamed the Roof of the World, an estimated population of 28 millions, Nepal is the birth place of the Buddha, born in Lumbini.
We will nee a visa to get in, you can get it on arrival at the Airport, where you can find a bus going to Thamel, cheapest way to go ! I suggest you check the conditions specific to your country, but have USD ! The currency is the Nepali Rupee (1 euro = 140 rupees (31.12.2020)). Moving around is not that easy with public transportation (buses), so I suggest to use an app like Tootle Today, or Pathao ! Affordable living, and a polluted city, with the best moms in the world, cables and traffic, welcome to Kathmandu City.
Nepal is probably the most LGTBQ + friendly courtly in South Asia. With the work of organisations like The Blue Diamond, Nepal keeps making history (third gender, legal protections, provisions for same-sex marriage…).
Safe and alive, your visit in Nepal should be a highlight of your travels ! Gay Nepal is soft, and lively, still with its own challenges. Not to be mistaken with the open love and affection between men in the streets ! One of my favourite place to visit, and a gay bar I very much enjoyed, Pink Tiffany host of a drag show ! Read here the inspiring story of its founder !
Another place, I highly recommend is the Purple Haze Rock Bar : Live music, gay-friendly, and cheap drinks ! The perfect start for the weekend or a night out with friends during the week ! I saw a show of a CCR Nepali band, it was quite something, and no-doubts one of the coolest night ever !
By Asian standards, Nepal is a safe gay travel destination ! Now, on to the walking part !
A valley, three cities, so much to see !
Historically called Nepal Valley ou Nepa Valley, Katmandu Valley is formed by three main cities Kathmandu City, Lalitpur (Patan) & Bhaktapur.
Here’s the list of my Top 15 – The Valley of Katmandou, if you just want the list, and not the story !
In 2006, UNESCO declared some monuments as a World Heritage Site (WHS). The Durbar squares of Hanuman Dhoka, Patan and Bhaktapur, the Hindu temples of Pashupatinath and Changunarayan, the Buddhist stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanath.
Jhochhen Tole, the original « Freak Street » popularised by hippies doing the 60’s and the 70’s, B, on the Hippie Trail, has now been replaced by Thamel. Full of accommodations, restaurants, and access to Kathmandu City must seen, it si a cool neighbourhood. I stayed in the Wander Thirst. Well-placed, it was perfect to go on walk in the city for a nice awakening.
Here’s a list of my top 15 favourites ones :
- The Durbar squares of Hanuman Dhoka, close to Indra Chowk, and the surrounding Temples,
- The Durbar square of Patan,
- The Durbar square of Bhaktapur,
- The Hindu temples of Pashupatinath and Changunarayan,
- The Buddhist stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanat
- Nagarokt, the perfect weekend trip,
- Chhauni Museum
- The Royal Botanicals Gardens
- Kopan Monastery,
- The Taleju Temple, the Kumari is a must known.
- The Tribhuvan Museum,
- The Jagannath Temple,
- Kirtipur ,
- Patan – Laliptur
Pack some water, and go get lost in the myriad of streets ! You will get lost, oh trust. The smells, the noises, the dangers too, the streets of Kathmandu are one huge mess of cables, dirt, dogs, monkeys and people !
I loved my time there, and I promised to take my husband there someday ! We’ll, I guess that the next time will be different ! I imagine less day drinking with foreigners and locals, no more sexcapades to fuck this cute nepali, I had a great time with, in the dark of the cold night of the street of KTM.
The Nepalese are the most welcome people ! I will be grateful for the help, and go see for yourself ! Nepal, I will stay longer next time ! A week was not enough the go to Pokhara, Bandipur, or Lumbini … So see you soon 😉
The soul of the city will surely be as vibrant as it was !
Well now, it is time to see where to walk around in this valley !
My version of a Nepalese Trek : Walking in Kathmandu Valley
So, my gay ass trekking « no she better don’t » version of the ABC trail is simpler, cheaper, less sweaty too. There is a lot to do around the City. The Valley is composed of Kathmandu, Patan, et Bhaktapur.
Kirtipur and the hilltops like Champa Devi are the perfect hiking place ! South of Kathmandu, you can walk the 8 kms along the Bagmati river. There you have amazing food, the Bagh Bairab Temple, and the Tauhada Lake to see. It is a guaranteed authentic experience of Nepali way of life.
Patan – Laliptur has the most incredible wood & metal work in the world. The « City of Beauty » is known for the craftsmanship reversed through out the generations. The singular terracotta Temple worthy of a visit the Mahaboudha, a Shikara Style Temple with countless representations of Buddha are, with the Patan Museum, some of the must see around Place of traditions, ou will find many temples of different faiths(Hindu or Buddhist), an old charm despite the closeness to KTM, Unesco Sites, and again, the loveliest people, the Newar. Proud, longtime independent as a city-state, the place will make its mark.
Bhaktapur is a bit away from KTM, nothing you can’t handle. The City of the Devotees is probably one of the most beautiful place I’ve had the chance to see. Display of woodwork, finest handcraft metal work, the traditional way of crafting can be found on the monuments. This City is art standing.
Here’s the map I used for this. I recommend you to use an app like maps.me for this : you can manage time, directions, and all. It can really be tricky to find your way back sometimes !
For more questions or question suggestions, contact me !
Don’t forget to check the Tales of my Mexican Journey, my first solo backpacking trip waiting for the next one !
Next stop, Incredible India ! I can’t wait to revisit these memories !